Here is how to make the button fly insert.įirst, sew together the interfaced contrast fabric to a denim facing piece, right-sides together along all the long and curved edges, leaving the short top edges raw. If you don’t want contrast fabric involved, instead of using two facing pieces and stitching them together, use the U-shaped button fly unit as shown in the center of my cutting layout photo. The button fly insert will yield a contrast fabric peeking out on the public side of the hidden insert. The two units on the right will form the fly extension on the right side of the jean. The two units at left – the serged facing and the button fly insert – will be on the left of the jean. If you cut them out incorrectly, don’t worry – the pieces are small. Please note the direction these are cut out, as per the direction the bottom curve faces. You can get a feel for the process, make sure you don’t make mistakes on your garment – and you can keep the fly sample for future reference.īelow are the four separate units we will use, along with the pants fronts, to make the fly.įrom the left we have a facing with a serged edge, a completed button fly insert (with buttonholes and contrast fabric), and two more facings stay-stitched at 1.5mm around each edge, about 1/16″ from the seam allowance. And even more advanced stitchers don’t especially enjoy reverse-engineering, either! My advice is to take two 12″ squares of denim and cut the front and top of the inseam out of them, then do a sample fly as per my instructions here (minus the buttons). Your average beginner won’t be able to reverse-engineer it. Now, the button fly is a bit confusing when you’re first contemplating it. My button fly method is also beautiful – go ahead and peek inside designer jeans and compare. Great job on your front pockets! today? We are talking the button fly! This might be the trickiest part of the jean: but it’s pretty easy when you break it down point-by-point.
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